Contrast control for the LCD and SUMPOD

Today I spent time getting the new LCD to work with a contrast button, using information on the SumPod wiki. I made my own drawing which shows both ends and the 10k variable resistor. Pleased to say it works fine!

16 x 2 LCD wiring with contrast control - SumPod 3d-printer-kit

I also got the Marlin software uploaded to the Arduino board and the click encoder/speaker/sd card reader wired up. I put an SD card into the reader and was pleased to see the files on the card show up in the menu.  What I can do with them and how it all works is a different matter!!!


I went out to give the new front panel to hold all the new electronics, its last coat of paint when it went and crinkled badly!! many choice words were expressed since I am running very low on the paint to match the SumPod. :(

Hot end progress halted by breaking Power Resistor lead! Doh!

Conrad Electronic UK
Europe's leading electronic specialists now in the UK

I have made good progress on my dual hot end extruder design and despite breaking the thermistor, then snapping a lead off the resistor when dismantling the existing hot end, I managed to get the test done. Further progress is now on hold until replacement components are delivered :(

The first problem I had to overcome when testing my design was no voltage at D10! So no voltage or power to the power resistor. After checking it was not switched off in software I asked Richard if he could help and eventually the solution was found. Because of the damage to the thermistor (it wasn't there!) this meant that no power was available. Following an article on the RepRap site I had to wire a 10k resistor between the 2 ends of the thermistor wires. This proved to be the solution and as soon as the components arrive I am sure I can get it to print in 3d!

Building the SUMPOD 3D printer hot end with the ‘new’ part.

Conrad Electronic UK
Europe's leading electronic specialists now in the UK

Here are some photo's of the way I built up the hot end o the Sumpod 3D printer. The key issues are the placement of the thermistor, the location of the aluminum housing for the power resistor used to heat the filament, and the placement of the PTFE tube all the way down (and through the new part) to the nozzle end.

I used Kapton tape to secure the thermistor and power resistor, as well as some high temperature ceramic insulation, in place. Its relatively inexpensive and I bought mine from ebay, along with the insulation. If any SUMPOD builder wants some (I have loads left!!!) then send me a stamped addressed envelope and I will send some back to you.

Anyway, the pictures should clear up any confusion........if not email me.

SUMPOD build progress report

Conrad Electronic UK
Europe's leading electronic specialists now in the UK

Yesterday I had problems with axis going opposite from the controls  under RepSnapper. Looking at other builds I decided to try Renaissance Mans  suggestion and reverse the stepper drivers wiring from black, green, red and blue and just turn the plug around. Low and behold it works! One problem solved.

The second was connecting to ReplicatorG. Asking the question on the SUMPOD forum an answer came back that you need to choose Klimentkip 115200 (menu: machine, sub menu: driver). Secondly, my trackerball seems to affect the connection but once I removed it then it connected straight away and using the control panel found that all axis worked and in the right way. I did have some strange results though with previous directions repeating next time irrespective of button pushed.

How I got the 3 axis of the SUMPOD working.

Conrad Electronic UK
Europe's leading electronic specialists now in the UK

There have been many queries on the SUMPOD forum regarding some axis working one way or the other or not at all. My own first test saw some motors working in a similar fashion to those on the forum.

I am not saying this is the correct way to do it but it worked for me.

To help understanding I am including a photo of the Ramps board below.

The green/black wires are for the X axis and the black (outside wire) is to the common connector on the micro switch. The green wire goes to NC.

Plug position 3 is the Y axis and the outside wire (white) is common and inside wire (yellow) is to NC.

Plug position 6 is the Z axis and the outside wire (red) is common whilst the inside wire (blue) goes to NC.

Electronics morning – LCD working for the Sumpod 3D printer/router

Well after a telephone conversation with Richard yesterday I made copious notes regarding the wiring and this morning armed with the additional information I set forth! If you have been following my build you will have seen I had difficulties with the LCD that I put down to my failures as a solderer, when in fact it was the wiring that was not suitable for solder, being meant to be crimped. So its ironic that after two further attempts this morning to solder the crimps on, in the end I crimped them!

Was my soldering at fault? Well yes and no, since the first time I used too much solder to allow the crimps to slide into their plastic covers. So since I have ordered more Hobbystore, I thought I would redo them and try to be much neater. In fact I was pleased with the second attempt and they slid easily into place. It was only then that I found my problem. The solder had run into the main body which needs to fit over the corresponding pins. Some would go, but many had solder blocking them.

Wiring diagram for the Sumpod 3D printer – from Reprap

Well thanks to "electronica" from the Sumpod Forum I have the wiring schematic for the Sumpod. You can see it in all its glory here.

Basically the 4 wires for each motor in order are Red, Blue, Green then Black (when looking down on the board from above and the D10, D09, D08 ar on the left hand side.

The limit switches go to the block of 3x 6 pins and the axis are identified on the reprap board with the top two (of the 3 pins in line) are used. The orientation I have been told does not matter due to control via software although I have yet to prove that myself. Wiring for the extruder uses D10 as D09 is for a second extruder and D08 for a heated bed (which I am considering buying). So tomorrow I hope to not only get the motors working

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